I used third party sensors to get temps from the engine. Using the stock ones risks goobering up the ECU as they are NTC and do not send out their own signal as does the TPS. Install temp senders in custom or aftermarket manifolds. I installed an aluminum t-stat housing and tapped that for a sensor ...

Dude, I'm gonna start charging consulting fees... (frankly, all of this stuff is in the manual or the knowledge base...) Data in the table (input and output....): http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e66/osborni/Sensors/Fuel1.jpg The equation that generates: http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e66/osborn...

Would it better in the enter an equation manually tab please can you advise what data goes in the 4 fields ? there is no mention of the y axis ?/ Output = (what data goes in here ?) x Input 3 + (what data goes in here ?) x Input 2 + (what data goes in here ?) x Input + then final box here ? any tho...

As a general rule I don't put conversions into Analysis or the Dash2 until I've confirmed that the raw voltage is what it is supposed to be. i.e., recorded some trial data and looked at the screen with everything up and running. THEN I put in conversions. The table should be: Input X Output Y 0.5 0 ...

Ratiometric at 12 VDC is going to be a problem. Car voltage will fluctuate quite a bit and the DL1/Dash2 only has a modest 5VDC supply. Low drop-out linear power supplies are flaky as well. Your best bet is a power supply from a "car-computer" so you can get a reliable 12VDC or just buy a ...

The RPM is 3 pulses per rev if you are picking it up from the stock dash harness. The RPM display will be ,0,0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7 with the shift lights set to your preference. I have them with a 6,000 rpm flash and they start coming on at ~4,000 RPM - which lets me know that I'm on cam. You will need to ...

I'd use the DL1 as the primary sensor input device. I'd only use the Dash2 for overflow from the DL1 or for the slower (temps...) reacting sensors. I use pressures on the Dash2 only because I use my car on the street and don't turn the DL1 on for that. I'd wire a separate power switch for the Dash2 ...

Ah - DL1+Dash2 - more clear now. You wired in the TPS - the sensor is already there (on top of the throttle body) and basically free. If I remember, it's the #2 wire (middle wire) that is the signal. Just tap into it and you have a great set of data on how good you are with throttle application and ...

To be clear, you have a Dash2 as a stand alone? No DL1? 1) - Yes - Generate by table. It would depend on how you want to think about your fuel level. Typically either: a) 0, 1/4, 2/4, 3/4, 4/4 full (well in this case it would be 0, 0.25, 0.5, 0.75, 1) or b) 0, 1L, 2L..... 60L (IIRC it's a ~60L tank)...

Mark 1 or 2?

Mark 1 = green connector blocks
Mark 2 = black connector block

http://www.race-technology.com/product_ ... 30552.html

I don't remember if the '95 has one or two senders..... (I have an M Coupe) BMW fuel level sender data from another forum: m The two fuel level senders are in series, meaning you must add together the resistance of each side. The resistance range for each fuel level sender is: Empty: 10 Ω Â±2 F...

Have you loaded sector markers, aka dot lap files.

Here: m and here: m (aside: the knowledge base is quite good, I'd muck around there a bit to learn) There are a few posts on this forum available for search. It's basically a DIY job and requires that you have at least a basic understanding of electronics and wiring. Helpful if you know the basics o...

On my V8, the car constants are "CAR_01" etc. From within the variables manager, open up an equation and you will see the list of them in the middle right hand menu for selecting information for a custom equation. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e66/osborni/CAR_constant.jpg

If you have the fuel sensor plugged into a DL1 rather than directly to the Dash, you can also slow down the sample rate to 5 or 10 hz. That way, when you set the "samples to average" to 100 on the Dash, you will get an averaged readout every 10-20 seconds or so. It should slow it down so y...