Yes for 2 wire, you will likely need a converter box. Variable Reluctance sensors.

One of these is required:

http://www.race-technology.com/signal_c ... 30630.html

If you are handy with electrical diagrams, you can home brew one. A variable reluctance conditioner and a divider.

Typically the center pin is the signal and the two on the end are the VDC supply. Pin 1 on Bosch sensors is typically ground. Pin 3 is volts.



You may have better luck looking up a wire diagram for your car rather than the sensor.

Seams like you worked it out. FYI - the DL1 is a "dumb" logger. It doesn't do any math to translate an input voltage into something "real". The Dash2 and the Analysis program does that. The DL1 just logs voltage values over time. What I've done with sensors with an unknown output...

What is your forumula for the dash2?
How did you put it in?
Do you have the temperature and resistance curves for the temp sensor?

The Dash2 (not pro) will flash the shift lights and change the display for an alarm. I do not know about the Dash3

You need a data logger / display that has an output driver. The newer Dash2 pro and the DL1 mk3 have those.

Personally, I use a separate set of warning lights from Longacre. I have a DL1mk2 and a Dash2 (original version).

For what it's worth, I have M8 bolts which have a head of about 8-10mm across (from memory) on a 120mm diameter bolt circle. The signal looses it at around 100-110 MPH. Which is around the 1mS limit described in the equation above (Thanks!)

So I need bigger targets.

A) Check the bolt head spacing and the size of the bolt head. Closer is better as is bigger.

B) you really only need 1 bolt.

That's absolutely stupid. What is the point of being able to set up a warning system if there is no proper warning? I have no gauges in the car at all and was planning on using the warnings to alert me of any problems. The motec does have an output for a warning but I have all of my inputs going in...

The DL1 and the Dash3 do not have external drivers to turn a relay on/off. Does your Motec? You will need a newer DL1 mk3 or a new Dash2 pro (?) I have a DL1 mk2 and a Dash2. Though the warning lights are there, I have the same problem with differentiating warning from shift light operation. So, I u...

I put a few layers of heat shrink over them and locate them where they won't see the full heat of the engine bay. Seams to work fine.

I'm not sure of the exact specs of the sensors, but oil pressure will typically run in the 60-80 psi range. Water pressure in the 10-15 psi range. Yes, they will work (assuming they fit mechanically), but you won't have the best resolution. Water pressure sensors only need to be rated to 25 psi max ...

Not sure about issue #1 - but have you loaded up the latest flash version? I'm not really sure with mine, but on earlier flash version, sometimes the config files wouldn't "take" the 1st time. Honestly not sure if it was operator error or the unit though. Seams to be more stable with newer...

It's not "bad", just consequences of choices. My understanding (my assumptions and with conversations with R-T) is that the choice of communications technology to control costs limits the available bandwidth - which requires removal of error checking and flow control. It works great as lon...

Also - make sure you don't push anymore data to the Dash2 then you really need. 5hz is sufficient for most data. 25hz for RPM. Turn off channels from the DL1 that you don't need.

There isn't any flow control or error checking in the serial ring. Any corruption or overflow will freeze the dash.