I have a similar problem. My math says the bolt head is too small. It passes the sensor before it can change states. Bolt head on a m7 or m8 bolt.

Uh - poking at this, but that's good info - should be put into the knowledge base.

I didn't know the dash samples at 30hz. I might have missed it, but I've looked and didn't find it.

That's good info. Suggest putting it in your Knowledge Base. "Suggested Settings" or something.

Are you using the BMW ecu and motor harness? Does the ECU have a chip or is it flashable - i.e, can it be sharked? (if you open up the ECU case and you see an eprom that can be pulled, it's able to be "chipped". You will want to run a separate set of sensors for the data - with one excepti...

As for the jumping temp readings, yes, you need to apply some averaging. Typically 3-5 number of readings to average over is sufficient, but you just have to try. If you know the max rate of change per sample (you need to know the sampling frequency of the sensor at the DLx or at the Dash2 - which i...

Your mileage may vary.... One bolt. I have the sensor less than 1mm to the bolt head - need a little clearance in there. Bolt head just isn't big enough - or not enough magnetic variation relative to the face of the bearing. (as I write this....) might make sense to space the bolt head out a bit mor...

You are doing a fuel level measurement? Then you want lots of smoothing and a slow update interval. The variation in the voltage supply is particular to your device. So when you do a calibration on the actual fuel level, it will take care of itself. i.e., the bias will be compensated for in the cali...

3-4V swing is good..... depending on what you are measuring and how critical it is.

Yes, one of the frequency inputs. Needs to be enabled via the config tool. Just make sure it's a hall sensor, not a variable reluctance sensor. Multi tooth wheels on abs rings or cranks are normally VR sensors. You could just put a smallish bolt through the drive sprocket. Or pick up bolt heads on t...

You'll need to hook up the four buttons. Power up the unit and push the "menu" button. Scroll around until you find it. Menu structure: m Find "Logging Status" / "Status display" (same thing IIRC) Logging status: m Personally, I use the little check mark on the top righ...

That could be set as the logging indicator. Check that in the dash menu system.

Most speed sensors in OEM applications are variable reluctance sensors. The signal is pretty dirty and you need a converter box to get them into square wave - which he DL1 can understand. It's less hassle to mount your own hall effect sensor. I've mounted mine through the brake baking plates to pick...

If it's labeled, it should say PSIg or PSIa. You want the "a" version to also measure vacuum.

Jut tap the signal wire from the sender. No issues with that assuming the voltage from the sensor is within the Dash2 specs.

Is the boost pressure sender a "gauge" or an "absolute" sensor? i.e, does it also measure vacuum?

You can do whatever you want.

The analog ins for the Dash 2 are basically fancy volt meters. They take an input volt from a sensor then overlay a conversion equation to display in the format you want.

PSI, BAR, MPa, etc. are just software conversions from a sensor output voltage.